Polonnaruwa: The Glorious City of the Past
For a journey back in time to the heart of a flourishing ancient civilization, there is no place like Polonnaruwa. As Sri Lanka’s second-oldest kingdom, this magnificent city served as the island’s capital from the 11th to the 13th centuries. Today, it stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its remarkably well-preserved ruins and monuments telling the tale of a golden age of engineering, art, and spirituality. Polonnaruwa offers a more compact and concentrated exploration than its predecessor, Anuradhapura, making it an ideal destination for a day of discovery.
Location and Geography
Polonnaruwa is situated in the North Central Province of Sri Lanka, approximately 216 kilometers northeast of Colombo. Its geography is shaped by a flat, dry landscape punctuated by an incredible feat of ancient engineering: the Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakrama). This massive, man-made reservoir, built by King Parakramabahu I, is so vast that it truly resembles an inland sea. It not only served as a moat for the city but also provided a sophisticated irrigation system that turned the surrounding land into a fertile agricultural heartland, a testament to the ingenuity of the ancient civilization. The archaeological sites are surrounded by lush greenery, and the area is home to a unique population of toque macaques, who have lived among the ruins for centuries.
Why It’s Special
What makes Polonnaruwa truly special is its vivid and tangible history. Unlike other ancient cities, the ruins here are in a state of remarkable preservation, allowing visitors to vividly imagine the grandeur of the ancient kingdom. The monuments and statues are a harmonious blend of Buddhist and Hindu influences, reflecting the city’s complex and multicultural past. The site is a living museum, where you can walk through the ruins of a royal palace, marvel at the incredible rock carvings, and feel the tranquility of ancient monasteries. Its compact layout makes it easy to explore, with bicycles being the most popular and enjoyable way to navigate the site.
History
Polonnaruwa’s rise to power began in the 11th century when it replaced Anuradhapura as the capital. After an invasion by the South Indian Chola dynasty, who established a stronghold here, King Vijayabahu I recaptured the island and made Polonnaruwa his capital, re-establishing Sinhalese rule. The city’s true golden age, however, was under the reign of King Parakramabahu I and later King Nissanka Malla. During this period, the city was transformed with magnificent palaces, majestic stupas, and the creation of the colossal Parakrama Samudra. The city flourished as a center of trade, agriculture, and Buddhist learning. Although it was eventually abandoned, its legacy remains perfectly preserved, offering a window into a powerful and artistic kingdom that once thrived in the heart of the island.
Main Tourist Attractions
Polonnaruwa’s main attractions are all located within its expansive archaeological park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is a joy to explore.
- The Royal Palace: The ruins of King Parakramabahu I’s seven-storied palace are a magnificent sight. While only the massive brick walls remain, they give you a sense of the immense scale and grandeur of the original structure.
- The Quadrangle (Sacred Quadrangle): This is a compact, raised area that contains the highest concentration of the city’s most important religious and architectural ruins. Don’t miss the beautiful Vatadage (circular relic house) with its intricate stone carvings, the elegant Nissanka Latha Mandapaya with its unique “lotus-stem” pillars, and the stone book, Gal Pota, the largest slab inscription in Sri Lanka.
- Gal Vihara: This is arguably the most iconic site in Polonnaruwa. Carved out of a single granite rock, the four magnificent Buddha statues—including a large reclining Buddha, a standing Buddha, and two seated Buddhas—are a breathtaking example of ancient Sinhalese artistry and a major pilgrimage site.
- Lankatilaka Image House: A towering brick structure with soaring walls that reach nearly 17 meters high. The building houses a huge, headless standing Buddha statue, which still evokes a sense of awe and spiritual reverence.
- Rankot Vihara: As the largest stupa in Polonnaruwa, this magnificent brick dagoba stands as a symbol of the city’s religious importance. It is a fantastic example of the ancient stupa architecture found throughout Sri Lanka.
- Polonnaruwa Archaeological Museum: Located at the entrance to the site, this museum provides invaluable context for your visit. It displays models of the ruins as they would have appeared in their prime, along with a collection of artifacts, sculptures, and tools recovered during excavations.